FSP TECH

Power Window Reference Photos

Gerry Hulsey's Corner

Disc Brakes 1961/1962 B Body Pontiac

Contributed by Ray Green
Parts Needed: Hub and rotor assy off 1969/1970 Full size Pontiac
Backing Plate Off 1969/1970 Full Size Pontiac
Calipers For 1969/1970 Full Size Pontiac
1977 Buick Riviera Master cylinder
Compensation Valve
Approx: 12 feet of new brake line
Ball Bearing Part number B70 (Carquest item) 2 each
Bearing Seal Part number 3606 (Carquest item) 2 each
Pedal assy from 1961/1962 B Body Pontiac manual brake car
Wildwood rear brake kit for rear axle (all you need for it is in the kit)
Emergency brake kit for rear axle (Wildwood item)
Steel Washers o.d 2.100 inch
i.d. .8375 inch
Thickness .072 inch You will need to shim backing plate on
upper bolt and spindle.

1. Remove original drums off front of 1961/1962
2.Remove original brake shoes.
3.Disconnect wheel cylinder lines and remove cylinders (on front).
4.Remove Front backing plates.
5.Remove original master cylinder and remove the front brake lines to the metering block and the front wheels.
6. Remove original brake pedal ( if it is a power brake car only ) if manual brakes leave the pedal in the car.
7.On 1969/1970 backing plate use 3 1/4 inch hole saw to open up center of plate to allow room for the inner hub to fit freely. You must remove the angled lip on the plate prior to this.
8.Have machine shop machine 1969/1970 hub and rotor to fit the B70 ball bearing and 3606 bearing seal.
9.Install 1969/1970 backing plate on original 1961/1962 spindle use the original lower 2 bolts and nuts and on the upper point use the bolt off the 1969/1970 assy ( this is the large shouldered bolt and you must cut off approx 1/4 inch ( about 4 Threads ). When installing you may need to install a steel washer on the bolt between the spindle and backing plate to keep it at a true flat
( not required at all times so check it first).
10.Install the 1969/1970 hub and rotor with the new seal and bearing onto the 1961/62 spindle on the outer end install the bearing off the original 61/62 or the 69/70
( they are the same bearing part number ).
11. Install the 1969/1970 calipers onto the unit using new disc pads.
12. Install the 1977 Master cylinder and compensation valve assy onto the firewall
( it fits in the original position with no problem).
13. Block off the ports on the metering block on the front frame rail that fed the original front wheel cylinders.
14. Install new feed line from master cylinder/valve assy to metering block ( this line will be the feed to the rear disc only so make sure you use the correct position off the Master
cylinder/valve assy.
15. Fabricate and install new front brake lines from new master cylinder/valve assy to each front wheel feed block on the frame. Install the Flexible brake lines from that point to the calipers.
The rubber lines off the 1969/1970 work but may need to be tied off to prevent rubbing in some cases.
16. Take the actuator rod out of your original 1961/62 master cylinder and cut off threads as needed to fit it into the pedal clevis and the new master cylinder with little to no play . Remember this can be threaded for fine adjustment upon completion of the installation prior to bleeding the system.
NOTE :If you have a 1961/1962 Power Brake car you must change out the brake pedal prior to step 16 to get the correct pedal ratio for the disc to work with minimum effort on the foot pressure.
17. Install the Wildwood Rear Axle kit per the wildwood instructions and then bleed the entire brake system.
18. Install the Wildwood Emergency Brake kit as per their instructions .

You now have a 4 wheel disc system on a 1961/1962 Full size Pontiac . Note that this is a manual system not Power (no Vacuum Booster).
If you want to go to a 2 wheel disc system you can do the front disc install as describe but must use a proportioning valve to allow for correct pressure between the front and rear brakes for safety.


This installation is easy and allows you to use the original front spindles so you have no issues with A arms etc and alignment. This took about 2 years to figure out and will not apply if you have 8 lug Hubs. If you want wheel pattern change the machinist can do that to the front hub/rotor when he does the other machine work. We have this on a !961 Catalina Convertible with larger 15 inch tires and wheels and had the stud pattern changed for our desired wheels.

Click thumbnails to view various pics from the process
 

 

TH400 Swap

Contributed by Rick Croft

	63 crossmember with mount addition
I made use of all stock stuff here
	Down rod is bent as shown. Still goes through rubber floor seal. Also note bracket bend to make pivot parallel. All stock pieces here. Tilt is in camera
Use of the stock shift arm here & speedo cable
	Note bend in piece bolted to bottom of the car. This is for clearance. Other bracket and wire are for cruise.
Trans piece is from an aftermarket shifter. But this just takes time to make or find the right setup.
	This is how I made an adjustable setup out of it. This allows infinite adjustment to the shifter. Park is park ect.
Metal tab welded to frame, 4" x 1 3/4" Just to hold the rubber ends in. Needs paint!
	Crossmember clearance. You want more yoke out of trans. This works but I need to drive shaft shortened 3/4"
From under, looking up. Note offset. It is approximately 1 1/2" from straight
	Other side
Floor Pan clearance about 3/4"
	Another shot of the down rod from the shifter. All stock parts here.
This rod is from another car, but can be made from stock.
	It is 4" wide at the crossmember and 3" wide at the trans mount. It is approximately 5 3/4" long. Hole drilled is oblong.
The 400 tail shaft is wider than the Roto's the offset allows for this.
	Brake cable hook/drive shaft clearance.
This bracket is made from 1/4" steel. It measures 2" x 1 1/2" offset x 2 1/2".
	E-brake cable is relocated.
Crossmember bracket.
	Tail shaft housing clearance.
From rear to front...cruise bracket.

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